The Carpenter’s brush It is used in the field of carpentry. Its use is intended for the brushed or ground of braces or strips of wood, to match or lower wooden surfaces. It is usually confused with the fillister, but the difference is that the fillister it has a blade the same width as the box that contains it, while the brush does not. The fillister it is used for narrower places, where we cannot use a brush.
The carpenter’s planersThey generally have a length of about 20 to 25 centimeters. Its main part is the solid body, inside which is housed the blade that varies from about 40 to 50 mm wide. There is also a counter-blade held with a wedge, elements that prevent the cutting blade from moving when we use the brush. The lower part of the brush. The sleeper is the piece that slides on the wood. to the front of the brush It is called the tip, while the back is called the heel.
The metal brushes They are composed of smaller and interchangeable blades as well as disposable. Inside they have a lever pressing system and a relaxation screw, which provides an easier way to regulate the brushing capacity, if we compare them with wooden brushes. Depending on the model, the metal brushes They are provided with two grips: one at the toe and the second at the heel.
How to use a carpenter’s planer
1) Fix the wood at the proper height, on the top of the table with a vise. Check that the surface is clean.
2) It must brush in the direction of the wood grain. To find out if we are brushing in the right direction, we must strain the brush into the wood and simply push it with a finger. If it runs well, we are in the right direction. If it vibrates, we are against the thread.
3) Regulate the height: it is better to make more passes than one strong pass. This will prevent us from going over the height we want to roughen, quickly dull the planer, or repeatedly sticking it into the wood.
4) The blade must be adjusted depending on the type of material and work to be done. Once the blade is installed (parallel to the sleeper), the counter blade and wedge must be installed. As this must be parallel to the sleeper, a few small blows are given to the upper part so that it protrudes a little from the sleeper and the task can be carried out more effectively. If he brush it is metallic, just loosen the presser and move the blade by hand.
5) You can use a little bit of paraffin, which will achieve a better displacement.
6) Mark with a pencil the height to which you want to reach, on the side of the wood. In this way, we can quickly and visually confirm if we have managed to plan to the required height.
7) To properly hold the brush, the toe must be taken with the left hand (which will be the guide) and the heel with the right hand (which will be the hand that pushes and exerts the force). To achieve a uniform roughing, we must confirm that the piece is parallel to the ground and, in turn, that the person is also parallel.
8) Place the point (flat surface facing up) on the near end of the wood and apply gentle downward pressure to maintain even contact with the wood. push the brush forward with your right hand and transfer your body weight from the right foot to the left as you step forward with the brush.
9) As you near the end of the piece, reduce downward pressure with your left hand and increase pressure with your right hand until the nose and blade come out of the wood. This is very important, otherwise rocking the brush at the beginning and end of the movement will create a rounded surface.
10) One of the problems that arise when using a brush manual is that the tool oscillates. To prevent this from happening, put more pressure on the front when starting work and then on the back.
11) The sharpness of the blade should be checked regularly. If sharpness is lost, sharpen with the corresponding stone with a sharpening angle of 25º to 35º.
Types of woodworking brushes
There are various types of brushes for wood and vary according to its use and size. Here are some models:
- Guillamen: it is a narrower planer than the woodworking planer. The blade protrudes beyond the width of the tool. It is generally used to open grooves in wood.
- toothed brush: this tool is intended to scrape wood before use.
- Roughing brush: it is even narrower than the guillamen. His blade can measure 3 cm wide. It is used in surface and edge preparation work and to reduce the piece until it reaches the desired dimensions.
- Smoothing brush: This brush is used after using the roughing brush. Its blade is about 5 cm wide.
- Double brush: This brush is used to brush against the grain of the wood. Above the slotted blade is a steel plate that breaks the chip as you plan.
- Garlopa: it is a type of cLarge epilo, used for roughing large pieces of wood. They are usually provided with a handle.
- Garlopin: It has similar characteristics to the plane, but smaller. The blade is somewhat rounded.